Mizenhead Light Station,
the southwest tip of Ireland

Mizenhead Light Station,
the southwest tip of Ireland

Note from Bill: Mary and I were fortunate to be able to visit Ireland on vacation earlier in the month of May. This posting is the 3nd of a 4 part series on our adventure.

As we left Kinsale on our 5th day in Ireland headed towards Kerry and the Friars Glenn Country House, we still did not have a true appreciation of Irish country roads. We only had about 200 kilometers to travel on the route we had planned for the day. For a number of reasons, it is a ride we will not soon forget.

Molls Gap at on the road to Killarney Click to enlarge

It started out calmly enough. The route we selected aimed us at Mizenhead Light Station, the furthest point southwest in Ireland, before turning north for the ride through the mountains to Kerry. As we are tooling through the Irish countryside, the roads started to get very narrow. By the time we got to Mizenhead, the road was barely 1 lane wide. Mary had a firm grip of the sissy handle on the passenger side as many time we were careening into the bushes on the side of the road to accommodate oncoming traffic. With about 20 kilometers to Mizenhead, the road narrowed again. It was basically a path that sheep would take between fields. And this was a numbered highway twisting around seaside cliffs. I spotted a tour bus about 1 km ahead of us heading in the same direction. For once in my life, it was a welcomed sight. I sped up to get snuggle right up behind the bus. It did a great job of clearing the road for the last 15 kilometers to the light station.

The scenery at Mizenhead Light Station is breathtaking. Set on jagged cliffs jutting out into the Atlantic, you can get a real sense on how the ocean has shaped life in Ireland. The western Irish coastline is basically a collection of cliffs, with little bays and protected harbors interspersed amongst the rocks. Mizenhead Light Station was originally built to guide mariners around the southern tip of Ireland as they crossed the Atlantic from the states headed towards Kinsale and Cork.

Friars Glen Country House in Killarney, County Kerry Click to enlarge

From Mizenhead, we turned north on our way to Killarney. Our route took us across the Caha Mountains and the Macgillicuddy Reeks, passing through the principle towns of Bantry and Kenmare along the way. This part of Ireland ranges from lush green farms to desolate mountain peaks devoid of color. There are any number of mountain gaps and passes which were traversed along the way, as well as several mountain tunnels. While being a pretty ride, because the roads were through the mountains it was also quite tiring. Our little rental car was breathing hard in several places as we crested some mountain peaks. Not to mention the constant shifting required to negotiate the many mountain switchbacks. We were very happy when we reached Killarney.

Muckross House In Killarney Click to enlarge

We stayed in Killarney at the Friars Glen Country House. It is a beautiful 10 room bed and breakfast on the outskirts of Killarney right beside Muckross House and Gardens. Mary Fuller, the innkeeper, was gracious beyond belief, providing us with delicious morning breakfasts and afternoon tea. Once she found out we were innkeepers in Killington, she made sure that she took our brochure, as she and her husband always take a ski vacation each winter.

Killarney is a rich environment for a visitor. There is just so much to do. We were getting tired of driving, so we decided not to drive the famous "Ring of Kerry". Instead, we spent most of the time hiking around the area. Next to Friars Glen was the Muckross House and Gardens, set on Muckross Lake. The grounds of Murkross House feature a 10 KM walk around the lake. It was just a delightful day. And we were walking on little Irish roads instead of driving on them.

Parade in Dingle Click to enlarge

The one day it rained consistently during our whole trip, we decided to visit the Dingle Peninsula. Dingle is a little fishing village/artist colony about 100 km east of Killarney. The ride was very pleasant with charming little villages, picturesque farm vistas, and any number of ocean inlets and bays to attract ones attention. When we arrive in Dingle, there was a local festival underway with marching bands and street entertainers, all performing in a driving rainstorm pretending it was a beautiful sunny day.

All told, the Killarney area was a welcomed break from our driving tour of Ireland. We stayed in Killarney for 3 nights. We had a chance to settle in, visit many nice pubs and restaurants, and casually tour the area. It is one spot we would go back to the next time we visit the Emerald Isle, but probably with our golf bags instead of our driving gloves.